For our final summer hurrah before the rigors of formal education set in, we took our overheated selves up north to the wilds of New York and Ontario. Our first destination would be Niagara Falls, NY, but first, we had to get there.

Connecting through Chicago-O’hare

On a quiet Friday evening, we flew into Buffalo, NY, retrieved our too-large baggage and headed to our rental car pickup. As has become our norm, we waited for something like 45 minutes to get a rental car. By the time we had finally made it to our hotel and settled in for the evening, it was around 1 in the morning, Eastern time.

Never mind the late arrival, we had vacationing to do! I had read over and over that the secret to Niagara Falls success on a weekend during the busy tourist season was to show up early. Given that, we drug our dead asses outta bed around 7, ate breakfast, and headed right over to Niagara Falls.

Maid of the Mist – this boat was just leaving as we got in line.

There are two boat rides you can take to get a little closer to the roar and spray of Niagara Falls. There’s the Hornblower, from the Canadian side, and the Maid of the Mist, from the American side. Both of them take you past American Falls, Bridal Veil Falls, and Horseshoe Falls. We had read that Hornblower used newer craft and that the Maid of the Mist, which has been in operation since 1846, was more historic. Ultimately, I think it came down to us wanting to have that experience on day 1.

Observation Tower from below

We stood in line to buy our Maid of the Mist tickets, and we couldn’t have spent more than 5 minutes in that line. We then spent another 10 to 15 minutes in line for the elevator, during which time, we could chill out and listen to the waterfalls and photo the boats and the Rainbow Bridge. Once we were down the elevator, we were outfitted with our fancy blue ponchos and basically only had to wait for the next boat to arrive. It saddens my little EE soul a bit, but we just missed boarding the Nikola Tesla and would have to settle for the James V Glynn instead. (I just looked it up. Apparently James V Glynn started at Maid of the Mist in 1950 as a ticket seller and bought the whole dang thing in 1971.)

I had had the presence of mind to pack along the kids’ glasses cases, so before we even really got started, I had their glasses and any unprotected electronics in my shoulder bag and under my poncho. The kids have waterproof cameras and Sean had his iPhone in a case as well as a GoPro for capturing the mayhem.

A little bit of American Falls and Bridal Veil Falls

It started out leisurely enough as we smoothly and quietly (electric motors, FTW) passed by the American Falls as they crashed down on rocks and boulders. Bridal Veil falls is barely separated from the American Falls. From out in the river, it seemed so small relative to the other two – more on that later.

A light mist from Horseshoe Falls

Then it was time to dive into the giant Horseshoe Falls. It’s poetic to call what was happening “mist.” It brings to mind gentleness and tranquility. But I’m gonna be honest here – as a contact lens wearer, I could have stood to don a pair of goggles. That “mist” was more like a steady rain carried on waterfall-generated air currents. I could literally feel my contacts trying to swim away. Sean was attempting to document through all the swirling water, Ian was kind of hunkering down (though he seemed to be enjoying himself), and Maya was trying to get as wet a she possibly could. I wanted to lean into it a bit and really feel the waterfall – and I did that – but I did it all with my eyes shut, so I wouldn’t lose my means of seeing.

After our journey

Once out of the main fray, I was able to squeegee enough water from my face to open my eyes again. We were all drenched. Luckily my bag had remained dry under the poncho, and it was warm enough out that none of us minded the soaking. It’s a good thing too, because we weren’t done yet! We walked up a little trail to what I think is called the Crows Nest.

Drenched blue ants, lining up to get more drenched

When we were trip planning, we had seen a photo of the American Falls that showed a string of blue poncho-ed people lined up on stairs just in front of it. I loved the perspective – you could see just how huge it was. Those people were heading up the stairs to the Crows Nest viewing platform. By this time, Maya had gone full fuck-it mode and ditched her poncho entirely – by the end, she was soaked through several times over. As we got nearer and nearer the waterfall, we were misted and sprayed again and again.

Rainbow in the foreground, Niagara Falls, Ontario in the background

As the light was diffracted through the ever-present mist, we got to see partial rainbows, full rainbows, even double-rainbows. Before we arrived, Sean kept telling me he would NOT be crossing the Rainbow Bridge into Canada – he intended to survive! However, having seen the prismatic effect of all that mist, it became clear where the bridge had gotten its name.

This girl – pure joy! (Not sure what Ian’s thinking about here)

After our soaking, we hung out at the top of the Observation Tower for a while, letting the cool breeze dry us a bit and taking photos. We were amused to find that we had arrived in New York in time to be sent a heat advisory. Yup – it was around 90. We came to cool off guys, what the heck? Also, we failed hard and didn’t pack sunscreen. Future travelers, you will be spending all day outside in the beating down sun. Let us be your cautionary tale! Wear sunscreen! Reapply!

After an unremarkable lunch that sadly cost more than our Maid of the Mist journey, we walked over to Goat Island, which is also part of Niagara Falls State Park. We wanted to take part in the Cave of the Winds adventure. You can only purchase tickets for this at the booth on Goat Island, and your tickets are for a timed entry. We got there around 1p and the earliest we could get in was 3:20! Were I to do it over again, I’d maybe pick up those tickets and then find food.

Horseshoe Falls from Terrapin Point on Goat Island. Note the boat barely visible through the mist.

We wandered over to Terrapin Point to get right up close to the top of the Horseshoe Falls.  The sheer volume of water moving over especially that part of Niagara Falls is incredible. After relaxing a bit and drinking in the sights and sounds, we decided we had plenty of time to kill, so we got some ice cream for the kiddos and lemonade for the grown ups and hung out for a while. A nice lady hanging out in the park overheard that I was having blister troubles and she gave me a bandage! Hooray for nice people.

We wandered over to see the American Falls from the Goat Island side as it crashed and splashed in all its glory. Bridal Veil Falls from the top is deceptive. It would be the most likely to kill you, I think. You’re wandering down a little stream and you barely notice it; then the stream just abruptly ends.

Bridal Veil Falls, from the top

By this point, we had gotten close enough to our 3:20 time slot to enter the attraction. It started with a small museum (which was delightfully air conditioned) and a small six-minute video providing a bit of history. And then we were ushered through a set of doors to wait for the elevator down (175 feet down, in fact) to the start of Cave of the Winds. Here we are in New York out in the full mid-afternoon blazing sun, waiting for 45 minutes for that elevator.

American Falls, from Goat Island

Once we finally made it down the elevator, they handed out yellow ponchos, but Maya didn’t even bother this time. As you’re reading reviews and things, you may see that they give out shoes to wear as well. That is no longer accurate. I believe to reduce waste, they’ve stopped providing footwear.

Cave of the Winds – as I understand it, they take down that decking and scaffolding each fall and rebuild it each spring

After baking in the sun for a while, we were quite content to let the waterfall douse us again. We walked along Niagara River for just a bit before climbing stairs up along Bridal Veil Falls. No longer did this waterfall appear slight. Now it was crashing down right next to us. Ian bent down at one point to just straight up stick his arm into actual Niagara Falls (he was so proud). We were again misted and sprayed as we worked our way up to the main attraction.

Hurricane, indeed – I think I heard up to 68 mile an hour winds can be experienced here. That’s Maya, without her poncho, by the way.

We finally made it to the Hurricane Deck. Between the water you’re lashed with and the falls-produced hurricane-force winds you are buffeted by, it’s definitely an intense experience. Maya could be heard giggling and squealing above the roar of the falls. Sean photographed himself leaning back into the water as it crashed down around him. Maya tells me it feels like rocks hitting your back but that she loved it anyway. Ian tried to stick it out and seemed to enjoy himself, but before long, he was asking if we could walk back down and stick our hands in the waterfall again. I again was wishing I had packed swim goggles so I could keep the water out of my contacts.

Sean enjoyed the Hurricane Deck as well.

Sean and Maya soaked up a little more hurricane. Ian and I walked down and played in the waterfall a bit more. And then we all met up and headed back to the top, make the long walk back to our car, and finally drive to Canada.

Our hotel was only about 2.5 miles away from where we were parked at Niagara Falls, but crossing the Rainbow Bridge into Ontario took up around an hour and 15 minutes. It was well past 7 before we arrived at our hotel, and it was even later before we had settled in a bit and chosen a place for dinner.

Glowing falls, as seen from our hotel

By the time we were done with dinner, it was dark. They light up the falls at night, and we wanted to walk along the river and see how all the glowy mist looked. We wandered along Niagara Parkway (I think), trying to see if there was a walkway down to the path that skirted the Niagara River. Alas, we found none, and by the time we worked out that there was no easy way down, it looked like the funicular (the inclined rail and cable system that runs up and down the side of the gorge) wouldn’t be open long enough for us to ride down, take our walk, and then make it back again, so we decided that we were too pooped to party, and we headed back to our hotel and called it a night. I will say, the view of the falls from our hotel room was beautiful, and we got to watch the lights a bit from there.

I always fuss about wasting money on a hotel we barely stay in, but it did not suck waking up to that view

We were again up and at ’em at 7. Today’s goal was to see the falls from the Canadian side. Everyone had told us the best views were from this side of Niagara Falls, and it kind of makes sense. You’re looking back at the lush greenery of the state park in New York. In Ontario, you’re seeing lots of hotels and a casino and other development. Also, in New York, you’re kind of *on* the falls, whereas in Ontario, you’re looking back across the Niagara River at the falls.

We started out with a lovely breakfast at our hotel’s restaurant. I got to try one of the Canadian specialties I had read about: peameal bacon. It’s essentially cured pork back / pork loin that’s been rolled in cornmeal (though originally, it was rolled in ground dried yellow peas, which were thought to extend shelf life). Mine were part of a lovely eggs Benedict. Sean and the kids’ food looked really fantastic too, and it was a relaxing way to start what was sure to be a busy day.

After breakfast, we took the funicular down to the pathway along the Niagara River. We entered the Table Rock Visitors Center – a touristy behemoth from which we were able to purchase our tickets for Journey Behind the Falls. This is pretty much exactly what it sounds like. You again queue up to take an elevator down to a series of tunnels that take you behind Horseshoe Falls and lead you to portholes looking from behind. It’s sort of unremarkable from a picturesque standpoint, but it’s pretty cool to be looking out from behind that vast volume of water crashing over the edge of the falls.

Woods family photo with the *back side of water* in the background

After a couple of porthole views, we eventually came out at the base of Horseshoe Falls, where we again got a proper soaking. Today, Maya had decided she didn’t feel like getting wet, and so her reaction to this experience was more subdued. Ian may have been getting tired of the waterfall action by this point; he kept asking if it was time to go up yet. Sean and I soaked it all in – the atmosphere, the natural splendor, the water.

Journey Behind the Falls

We did eventually meander our way up. We picked up a few drinks and snacks and wandered along the Niagara River for a little while. Our destination was Skylon Tower. I had noticed that if we dined there, we wouldn’t have to pay a separate admission to the viewing deck. And so it was that while the kids ate maple lollipops, I booked a 2:30 lunch reservation at something I normally would categorize as tourist schlock.

Mom and Maya in the Skylon Tower

The walk to Skylon Tower from Table Rock Visitors Center was manageable and very pleasant, at least while we were on the riverfront. The heat kicked in as we made our way up to the actual tower. When it was time for our reservation, we rode an elevator up to the restaurant level and were promptly seated. The restaurant makes one full revolution each hour, so over the course of our roughly hour-long lunch, we were alternately treated to views of the fall and views of the city. Food was … fine. Ingredients seemed fresh and of decent quality and the dishes were serviceably prepared. But, in the end, it was nothing to write home about. I loved being able to sit and watch the beautiful scenery slowly glide by, but ultimately the revolving restaurant at the top of a tower pretty much exactly met my expectations of mediocrity.

Panoramaaaaaah

After lunch we checked out the observation deck to take in those amazing Niagara Falls vistas for just a while longer. Then with a deep sigh, we made the long, hot trek to our car and loaded up for the hour and a half long drive to Toronto.

Ian and Dad ate there too

In conclusion, we loved our trip. There are tons of activities that we didn’t partake of and could still easily fill a couple days with Niagara Falls goodness. Is the area over-touristed? Probably, especially during the summer. Are services around the area overpriced? Of course. Is it worth visiting? Yup. Did we take too many photos of the same three waterfalls? Yeah, probably.